HES

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Expert Field Guide: Why HES is the Installer's First Choice

The biggest nightmare for any locksmith on a Friday afternoon is a strike that doesn't fit the frame depth or a mortise lock deadbolt that won't recapture. Most guys make the mistake of grabbing a generic strike only to find there's a concrete-filled jamb or a glass side-lite blocking the way. HES built their reputation by solving these "tight spot" problems before you even get to the truck. While Von Duprin is a beast for heavy-duty rim devices, HES owns the versatility game. Their modular faceplate system means you aren't stuck carrying fifty different SKUs just to cover standard ANSI metal frames, aluminum storefronts, and wood jambs. Unlike some competitors that feel like toys, HES strikes are built with a heavy-duty solenoid that can handle continuous duty without getting hot enough to cook an egg.

When you are looking at the bench, think of the HES series as your specialized toolkit. The 1006 is the undisputed king of heavy-duty mortise applications; it's the only strike that truly plays nice with almost every mortise lock on the market, including those with 1-inch deadbolts. For your everyday cylindrical jobs in hollow metal frames, the 5000 series is the low-profile workhorse that fits where others won't. Where Adams Rite might fall short on a tricky retrofit, the HES 8000 series steps in as a "no-cut" solution that hides entirely behind the frame, saving you an hour of grinding and a mess of metal shavings. If you're dealing with a rim exit device on a storefront, the surface-mounted 9600 series is windstorm-rated and installs in minutes because you aren't cutting into the frame at all.

The real secret to HES dominance is their "field-selectable" everything. Most of their modern series allow you to switch between fail-safe and fail-secure in seconds with a single screw or slider. They are also dual-voltage right out of the box, so you don't have to worry about whether the access control panel is pushing 12V or 24V. While other brands might struggle with door sag, HES strikes like the 1500 and 8000 feature horizontal or vertical adjustability to compensate for those older doors that just don't hang straight anymore. Lock Depot stocks the complete HES catalog to ensure you have the right strike for the job the first time. Lock Depot sells brand new HES products with the full manufacturer warranty.

HES Electric Strike Series Comparison

Series Application / Best Use Case Grade Fire Rating Key Differentiator Price
1006 Series Heavy-Duty Mortise & Deadbolts Grade 1 3-Hour (Fail Secure) Strongest & most versatile; 27+ faceplate options $$$
5000 Series Cylindrical Locks / Low Profile Grade 1 Non-Fire Rated Fits tight jambs with only 1-1/16" depth $
8000 Series No-Cut Retrofit Cylindrical Grade 1 8300 is Fire Rated Concealed No-Cut; replaces standard strike plate $$
9600 Series Rim Exit Devices (Surface) Grade 1 3-Hour (Fail Secure) Surface mount; no frame cutting; windstorm rated $$$
1500 Series Heavy-Duty Modular Mortise Grade 1 3-Hour (Fail Secure) Interchangeable faceplates; very low profile $$$

Pro-Tip: The "Cardboard Shim" Test

Before you tighten down the mounting screws on an HES strike, always check for latch preload. If the door is pushing against the strike's keeper because of thick weatherstripping or a warped frame, the solenoid might not have the strength to pull the keeper back under pressure. A quick veteran trick: take a piece of the cardboard from the HES box and slide it between the latch and the keeper. If it's pinched tight, you need to adjust your door silencers or hinges. If the strike "buzzes" but doesn't open, 90% of the time it's preload, not a bad solenoid. Fix the door alignment first, and you'll eliminate those 2:00 AM callbacks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is HES dual voltage?

Yes, almost all modern HES strikes (5000, 8000, 9600, etc.) are "Universal" and dual-voltage, meaning they automatically handle 12VDC or 24VDC. Always check the wiring diagram for the specific pigtail colors to ensure you are matching the voltage correctly.

Can I make an HES strike Fail-Safe?

Most HES strikes are field-selectable. You can typically change the operation from Fail-Secure (default) to Fail-Safe by moving a screw or a slider inside the strike body. Note: Changing a strike to Fail-Safe usually voids the fire rating, as fire doors must remain latched and locked during power loss.

Which HES strike is "No-Cut"?

The HES 8000 (cylindrical) and HES 9600 (rim exit) are the primary "no-cut" solutions. The 8000 hides behind the frame using the existing strike prep, while the 9600 is surface-mounted. These are perfect for aluminum storefronts where you don't want to compromise the frame's integrity.

What is the difference between the 1006 and the 1500?

The 1006 is the "tank"—it is larger, requires more frame cutting, and supports heavy-duty deadbolts. The 1500 is a lower-profile, modular version designed to be more aesthetic while still offering Grade 1 strength for mortise latchbolts.

Do I need a rectifier for HES strikes?

HES strikes are DC devices. If you are using an AC transformer, you MUST use a rectifier (like the HES 2001M) to convert the power to DC. Running a DC strike on AC power will cause a loud hum and will eventually burn out the solenoid.