SDC

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Expert Field Guide: Eliminating the "Incompatible Hardware" Headache

Any locksmith who has been around long enough knows the frustration of showing up to a job site with a high-end access control system, only to realize the existing door hardware is a mechanical relic that won't play nice with modern electronics. You're stuck either butchering a frame to fit a bulky strike or trying to explain to a client why they need an entirely new door. This is exactly where SDC (Security Door Controls) shines. They built their reputation as the "bridge" between mechanical hardware and electronic security. Instead of forcing you to reinvent the wheel, SDC specializes in the "missing pieces"—the retrofit kits, the universal power controllers, and the specialized strikes that allow you to electrify almost any opening without a torch and a prayer.

What sets SDC apart is their "installer-first" engineering. While competitors like Von Duprin or HES make fantastic products, they often lock you into their specific proprietary ecosystems—expensive power supplies and rigid footprints. SDC is the ultimate problem solver for the mixed-bag job site. Their LR100 series, for example, allows you to field-electrify a standard panic bar for a fraction of the cost of a new ELR device. Where SDC sometimes falls short is in the "all-in-one" aesthetic; their solutions are often modular, which means you might need to carry a few extra components compared to a single-box solution from a brand like Schlage. However, for a veteran who knows how to wire a relay, that modularity is a superpower, not a chore.

If you're building out a kit, here is your field cheat sheet: the 1511 series is your go-to for delayed egress when you need to stop "push-and-run" theft in retail. The 45 series strikes are the workhorses for cylindrical and mortise locks because they are nearly universal. For cabinet security or high-end display cases, the 290 series micro-bolts pack a lot of punch into a tiny footprint. If you're dealing with a warped door that won't align, the 1561 HiShear is the only way to get a magnetic lock to work on a door that doesn't close perfectly flush. Lock Depot sells brand new SDC products with the full manufacturer warranty.

SDC Key Series Comparison

Series Application / Best Use Case Grade Fire Rating Key Differentiator Price
1511 Series Delayed Egress Maglocks Grade 1 UL 10C Rated Integrated verbal countdown & digital display $$$
45 Series Universal Electric Strikes Grade 1 3-Hour Rated Works with 90% of locksets; low-profile design $
1571 Series EMLock® Magnetic Locks Grade 1 UL 10C Rated Interlocking quick-mount assembly; 1200lb hold $$
LR100 Series Electric Latch Retraction Kits N/A Field Dependent Retrofits mechanical panic bars to ELR in minutes $$
290 Series Micro Cabinet Bolt Locks N/A Non-Rated High-security bolt for drawers and retail cases $

Pro-Tip: Don't Kill Your Solenoid with "Voltage Drop"

The number one callback on an SDC installation isn't a failed lock—it's a starved solenoid. If you're running 18/2 wire over 100 feet to an LR100 kit or a 45 series strike, you might be seeing 24V at the power supply but only 19V at the door. SDC solenoids are tough, but running them consistently under-voltage causes "chatter" and overheating. Always use an SDC PR-1000 Power Regulator on your bolt locks. It pulls high current to project the bolt, then drops to a low-current "holding" state. This keeps the lock cool to the touch and prevents the solenoid from burning out three months after you leave the site.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between Fail-Safe and Fail-Secure?

Fail-Safe (like the 1511 Maglock) means the door unlocks when power is removed—essential for life safety on fire exits. Fail-Secure (most SDC strikes) means the door stays locked when power is lost, keeping the building secure. Always check your local fire code before choosing; you can't put a fail-secure strike on a path of egress without a mechanical override.

Can I power an SDC LR100 kit with a standard 1A power supply?

Technically, many SDC kits feature "low inrush" technology, meaning they don't need the massive 16A kick that older Von Duprin solenoids required. However, you should still budget at least 1.5A per door for latch retraction to ensure the motor has enough torque to pull the latch back against door seals or pressure.

How do I handle a door that has "Preload" pressure?

Preload happens when weatherstripping or air pressure pushes the latch against the strike, causing it to jam. For these cases, we recommend the SDC 45 series strikes. They are engineered to release under significant pressure where cheaper, generic strikes will simply lock up.

Why is my Maglock humming after installation?

A humming maglock usually means you've connected it to an AC power source without a rectifier. SDC EMLocks require clean DC voltage. If you're using an older transformer, you must install a bridge rectifier to convert that AC to DC, or better yet, switch to a dedicated SDC 602RF power supply.

Do SDC products meet "Buy American" requirements?

Yes, SDC is one of the few major hardware brands that still does a significant amount of engineering and manufacturing in the USA. Most of their flagship EMLocks and strikes qualify for projects requiring "Buy American" or "AIS" compliance, which is a huge advantage for government and military contracts.